Tuesday 4 May 2010

Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia, BULGARIA! (WALLCREEPER, Rock Thrush, Imperial Eagle & more!)

First ... hello to Dimitar and his wife (sorry, I don't know how to spell your name! - but see the end of this entry). I can't upload a photo because it has stopped working but I will next time (maybe at Burgas?). Thanks for a great day.

Hi everyone else. Sorry to be so long updating this. I'm in Eastern Bulgaria now but have found a place for internet in a small town after fruitless, nightmare search in Sofia, the capital city! Finding internet access (without your own lap/palm top is quite difficult). Right now, I'm sitting with the youth of Topolovgrad in an internet gaming club/cafe. It's very relaxed as they play their games.

I'll upload as many photos as I can in the time. Since the last blogette at Colin & Alison's, I rode on through Nth Italy right up to the border with Slovenia - a long, tiring motorway ride. For some reason, I get determined to reach a particular point and ride into the night ... NOT a good idea because finding your way/accomodation is quite stressfull & difficult in the dark. I have promised myself to stop & camp or find a hotel by 4.00pm. Camping has been blown out in the last few days, mainly because hotels or hostels are so cheap east of Slovenia (and who wants to set up a tent at 8.00 pm in the dark anyway!).



So ....here is the view of Slovenia as you come up the motorway out of Italy;    the Julian Alps.
Julian Alps; Slovenia/Italy border

Who ever heard of the Julian Alps? - not me until this trip - but they are stunning, proper Alps 'n all - look!
A Julian Alp!
another Julian Alp
As I approached the chosen hotel in Tarvisio (still just in Italy), the first disaster struck ...  I forgot about the panniers sticking out (you said I might, Mike!) and, at walking speed I brushed a pillar. It was enough to throw me off balance & over the bike went. I broke the clutch lever but I knew this would be my biking weakness & had brought a spare. The bike was ok so not a disaster really. I felt a little trapped in Tarvisio, like something out of Twin Peaks or The Shining! - high in the mountains in an out-of-season ski hotel, broken bike and rain.
Next day, I tried birding in these Julian Alps but it was hopeless without a guide or detailed info so I got off to Slovenia. I camped in Lublijana, a nice looking city (though I have vowed not to enter cities - see below) . Met this bloke (sorry, I have left your card in my hotel & have forgotten your name but I will mail you - good luck) with a vehicle he had converted himself for a one year trip from Finland round Europe. It was very impressive - even carried a motorbike in the luggage area! He made  me a very welcome coffee in this home-from-home. See photo (plus one to prove I do camp sometimes - even have a washing line!).
Lost a bit of birding momentum after this so drove slowly through Slovenia, enjoying this lovely little country - perfect for a short break, I thought ... until I got fined ON THE WAY OUT - for having travelled through Slovenia without a vignette. Know what that is? I didn't either! Never heard of it. It's a ticket you need in some countries (also Bulgaria). My fine was 150 euros!! This could be on top of a charge they ask for ast the Serb border with Croatia for insurance. More of that later.

Croatia ... Like Slovenia but poorer and less mountainous. Decided I needed to get some more birds in so spent a whole day at a nature reserve (not many of them about!) called Poljanski Polje (I need to check that spelling, so don't qoute it!). A long hot walk later gave me a breeding Spoonbill colony, Great Reed Warbler and Rough Legged Buzzard.

At this point, the technology has failed me! I was about to put up more photos but it's not working now (I think the camera is out of charge). I won't write a lot more detail  without pics (nor very interesting that way). Just a quick summary to finish then; 

Got through the Serb border into Bulgaria ok (all the stuff about corrupt officials demanding 120 euro for bogus insurance is wrong or out of date). Went to Sofia for internet access - terrible experience on the bike (cobbles and tram lines designed to throw you off!) and no internet (met this bloke who "helped" with parking and finding an internet cafe ... but that's another story). Out of Sofia, quick (I didn't like it), on to Melnik in the extreme south of Bulgaria (near the border with Macedonia) - fascinating little hamlet built on/ under huge sand cliffs, fab red wine, Golden Orioles, Lesser Spotted Woodpecker.

On to Trigrad Gorge (Devil's Throat) even closer to the border - awe inspiring cliff gorge, river and ...the star bird - WALLCREEPER! Hello to the Brits (Ian Misselbrook) who helped me find them (send me that pic if you get one - robert.duncan18@btinternet.com). HEY! Ian, you sent me the pics ... what a man & here they are! MY wallcreeper, the very day and second I saw them (there was a pair, this is the male)

Wallcreeper, Trigrad Gorge Bulgaria

Trigrad Gorge (Western Rhodopes Mountains, Bulgaria) - home of my wallcreepers!


Rock Thrush near Pirin, on the way to Topolovgrad. What a stunning bird - I didn't realise how eye catching as the male displayed from the very top of a pylon!

Finally, today, I am in a beautiful pre-booked forest hotel in Topolovgrad (East Bulgaria) and have had a day's guided birding around the area (Sakar Mountains). Lovely countryside and ... for the birders, get this; Imperial Eagle, Long Legged Buzzard, Lesser Spotted Eagle, Levant Sparrowhawk, Hobby, Sparrowhawk and Isabelline Wheatear amongst Shrikes, Hoopoes, Golden Orioles and more (what a place!). Thanks to Mitko (Dimitar) and his wife with the good eyes! You took me right to the good birds with superb views of most - a great day. I will have to come back for Masked Shrike!

Next it's north to the Black Sea coast area (Burgas & the Poda Nature centre)

Sorry no more photos, that's it for now and thanks for reading. Robert


6 comments:

  1. Whats the bird list standing at Robert and how many lifers so far?

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  2. Bird list at 156 with 25 lifers!! 156 a bit low but I´m missing some really common things like Gt spot woodpecker, dunnock and dunlin. Am just about to try uploading some more photos to blog.Glad you like reading it (hard to know what´s not boring when you´re in the middle of it). Ta for texts & comments. Say hi to G. Root!

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  3. Thanks for the comment Thomas. Just off to have alook at your blog! Rob

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  4. Customers expect more from hostels than just the minimum basics, especially if they are on the more expensive end of the hostel pricing scale.

    Hostel Buenos Aires

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  5. Hi Jaz,

    Erm ... couldn't agree more ... I think. Not sure if you are referring to my comments about hostels above but I was saying that camping wasn't cheap enough compared to the cheaper hotels and hostels. Good Luck Rob

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  6. Hostels are great for young at heart travelers.


    Buzios Pousadas

    ReplyDelete